The number of fish in any system is relative to the capacity of the filter to process and clean water not just to clear or polish it. Most manufacturers grossly exaggerate how their filters perform. Some use numbers to describe capacity like 3,000, 10,000, 20,000 which have no relevancy to the water to be treated. Normally 200 gallons per 12 to 24 inch fish will suffice depending on the system, media square foot surface area, oxygen saturation and flow rate. One mistake hobbyist make is they fill a new pond with as many fish they are led to believe they can hold, forgetting that the small fish they bought will grow and in awhile overcrowding conditions will begin to contribute to problems that will soon spin out of control.
2. How much media do I need to adequately filter the amount of water in my pond?
We recommend 1 cubic foot (32,000 surface feet) of Kami Mizu media per ton (250 gallons) gallons of water for average conditions with good quality fish. however some of our customers with exceptionally high value show fish will use 2 to 3 cubic feet per 24 to 36 inch fish.
3. Do I have to replace my existing system to use your media?
No. One advantage of our media is its versatility. It can be easily applied to existing submersible as well as other shower systems. If you have brushes, matting, bio balls, gravel, lava rock bead filters etc. In submersible systems, some of the old media can be used to pre filter water with the Kami Mizu media suspended on top over a separate grate leaving 8 inches between to allow space to place air stones to saturate the Kami Mizu porous substrate and facilitate water flow and nitrification conversion In trickle and other tower systems our media can be placed with existing media in the same manner. Remember Kami Mizu has 32,000 square feet per foot as compared to bio balls or matting with 120 to 250 square feet.
4. How much water should my system turn over at one time?
We recommend a complete turnover of pond water every hour. Thirty years ago it was generally believed that 21/2 to 3 times was sufficient. That was because of pump and filter restrictions due largely to the media capacity to convert and remove detritus waste. Plastic materials are not compatible for growing bacterial colonies because they are slick & smooth and in order to trap waste water has to flow at much slower rate. Later it was discovered when more porous media were introduced faster flow rates were much more beneficial Better mechanical bead and fluidized filters were also developed. They trapped heavier solid wastes allowing faster growing stronger Aerobic and anaerobic Heterotrophic bacteria to help clear and polish water giving the appearance of crystal clear water, moreover, many of the anaerobes which survive in that environment in the absence of oxygen will contribute to bacterial Aeramonas pathogens which cause disease outbreaks CLEAR WATER IS NOT CLEAN WATER There are many interacting kinds of bacteria necessary to bring about the best conditions to create a suitable environment for koi, especially high quality koi that most hobbyists purchase with the goal of improving and developing them to their fullest potential. Aerobic autotrophic bacteria, of which there are many more types, the two best know, being Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter are much more fragile in comparison and require huge amounts of oxygen because their replication can take as long as 24 hours Genera bacillus, Escherichia and other heterotrophic bacteria can reproduce in as little as 15 minutes to an hour in most environments. More importantly, the heavier solid harmful wastes the excessive byproduct Anaerobic bacteria can be easily removed by backwashing in pre filters Bead, fluidized and mechanical, which is the most efficient way to do that. The Kami Mizu media because of its intercellular structure creates ideal conditions for both oxygen and water allowing Aerobic and Anaerobic bacteria to co-exist.
5. Do I need to replace your Media?
No. The Kami Mizu media never needs to be replaced. It is a durable ceramic material kiln fired at 2200 degrees.
6. Do I need to buy all the required media at one time?
No. The Kami Mizu media can be added gradually. This is important in retro fitting projects. as is the case with older established systems As little as 6 inches of media is sufficient to nitrify water as long as enough oxygen and water is available. More media will provide greater capacity especially for larger ponds with bigger fish populations.
7. How often do I need to clean the your system and how much maintenance is required?
The Kami Mizu shower system never needs cleaning. All in and all out. The only requirement is to supply enough water and air to flow through the uniquely constructed interconnected cellular substrate. Submersible systems will need minimal periodic backwashing but only if used without a pre filter. Any of the many available types utilizing beads brushes etc. that can remove heavy solids, especially before the pump will eliminate backwashing.
8. Which system is better tickle or submersible?
The shower system is better. It is much more efficient to bring water to the air than forcing air through the water. This is why we recommend installing air stones in submersible systems below the media to assure that enough oxygen is moving through the substrate with water flow. Shower systems do not require additional oxygen and the action of water pounding on the media helps break down particulate faster allowing more rapid flow.
9. Do pre-filters help?
Yes pre filters help with submersible systems but they should be used only to break down or trap the heavier detritus wastes. Any of the materials in most open systems are adequate so long as they can be flushed or back washed. Bead filters work faster but if you have either they can be used adequately.
However the shower system does not require a pre filter and doesn't need to be back washed.
10. How should I stack the media in the system?
The Kami Mizu media can be randomly distributed in the filter chamber. No special stacking order is necessary. Our cylindrical pieces measure 4 inches in length by 3inches in diameter The hole in the center is there to increase all around surface area and to accommodate different heterotrophic bacteria in the center of the sphere and co habitat with the more sensitive autotrophic nitrobacteraceae on the surface where the oxygen is more abundant.